Archive by Author

Excursion to Mies Van der Rohe House

6 Feb

                                                                                                    By Rhea H. Boyden

Last Sunday afternoon, after having willingly spent the weekend in complete solitude reading, I set off on a guidebook writing assignment to the Mies Van der Rohe House which is in the former East Berlin district of Weissensee. As I walked down my street, feeling rather lonely and despondent on this cold, grey February day, the first thing I noticed was that yet another building on my street had been recently renovated to its core. A large sign was advertising swank new apartments for sale. A not unfamiliar surge of fear welled up within me. How much longer am I going to be able to afford to live in this gentrified neighbourhood on my relatively meager freelance income? I wondered to myself. As I rode the tram through the greyer, drabber areas of East Berlin, ever further away from the neighbourhood I call home, the fear of having to move out here made me feel even more lonely. If I had to leave my current environment that I am so comfortable in, would it affect my work and my well-being? Very likely, I concluded. I very definitely thrive in my crazy, colourful, centrally located bohemian flat, and I really could not see myself living in a highrise flat in Weissensee. Am I being a snob? I don’t think so. I am already living in a foreign country which brings hardships and homesickness enough with it, but I am at least still in the neighbourhood that my mother and sisters lived in from 1990-2001 which has subsequently become my home away from home. This is very comforting. When I finally arrived at the Van der Rohe House and entered the front door, my spirits lifted instantly. Suddenly, I was in a motivated and inspired work mode again. The atmosphere of the house was an excellent environment for research, reading and contemplation. I sat at the one table in the gallery and started reading about Van der Rohe’s philosophy on architecture. This simple L-shaped house on the shore of the Obersee was Van der Rohe’s last project in Germany before he reluctantly emigrated to the United States in 1937. He was the last director of the Bauhaus school which the Nazis deemed as ‘ungerman’ and it was forced to close down in 1933. His quest was one of simplicity and truth in architecture. Indeed, the house demonstrates his genius in using a minimum of materials to produce maximum quality in order to satisfy the needs of modern living. His intention was the eradication of the superficial and unnecessary in architecture. Sound choice of materials and structure, rather than the superficial application of a classical façade were ideas that shaped his philosophy.  The house was built in 1932 for Karl and Martha Lemke who owned a graphic arts firm and printing company. After much protest from the neighbours, who did not like the design, the simple, one-storied, flat-roofed building with its brick facade was constructed. It has huge plate glass windows that overlook a terrace and a well-landscaped lawn and garden. The terrace is at exactly the same level as the indoor rooms and so appears to be an extension of the house itself. This is very deliberate, as Van der Rohe strove to harmonise nature and architecture. The terrace and the garden serve as a wonderful extension of and  transition between the house, lake and the park beyond the garden’s boundaries. The Lemke’s lived in the house until the Red Army forced them to vacate it in 1945. The Red Army and, subsequently the Stasi, all thumbed their noses at any notion that the building was aesthetically pleasing or should be respected. Between 1945 and 1977 it was used as a garage, storage room, canteen and laundry room and it fell quite into disrepair. Eventually in 1977 it was listed as an historic building and between 2000 and 2002 it was finally renovated and refurbished to its former beauty.  It is now empty of furniture and used to display works of modern art. The works which are exhibited in the house must match Mies Van der Rohe’s dictum of ‘less is more’ and must also strive to express truth, beauty, serenity and harmony of nature, architecture and art. One of the artists who has exhibited her work in the house, is an American woman from Kansas named Max Cole. As soon as I started reading about her I was amazed at the coincidences that were made apparent to me. She says that her artwork is very influenced by her environment. The flat  and vast horizons of the Kansas plains lead to the horizontal bands and stripes in her artwork. She says that a simple dash or a stripe can signify the individual in his or her world. I  again thought about how my environment affects my work and my writing,  and I thought of my loneliness and solitude in the world. Writing is a lonely pursuit in many ways, but it is also one that has saved me after a decadent decade of alcohol and parties in Berlin. In my writing, I also search for truth, beauty, serenity and a way of connecting to the world. Is this not the goal of any art form, be it music, art, writing, poetry or architecture? These all provide a medium for connecting and expressing truth and beauty to our fellow human beings.  The buildings we live and work in, and the nature we roam and grow up in clearly all have a profound effect on our well-being and our work. I have only begun to realize as I mature, how the building that houses an artwork is as important as the artwork itself. Both must be in harmony, that is clear. I have come to hold art curators in high regard for their all-encompassing vision when planning an exhibition. I have recently been reading a lot about and by the American author and social critic David Foster Wallace. As well as being a brilliant writer who wrote the crystal clear and unapologetic truth about how he viewed society, he was also an excellent tennis player and mathematician, and he especially excelled at geometry. He, like Max Cole, lived in a very horizontal America and he was influenced by the sharp right angles of the flat streets of his Illinois hometown. In his novel ‘The Pale King’ David Foster Wallace describes life inside a huge IRS Tax building. The building is described as being ‘battleship grey’ and the lamps on the examiners desks are annoyingly placed right there where a right-handed person would need to place his elbow to take notes. The heavily made up secretary who sits there all day with hollow eyes is described aptly as looking like ‘an embalmed clown’. The people in this building must have about the most boring and life- sapping job in the United States and there is no mention of any artwork adorning the walls. Their job is to look at tax returns and decide whether an audit is necessary, no more than that. The building they are in is designed precisely for this purpose, and they are not encouraged to think outside this box or be creative in any way. There is, then, naturally absolutely no need to make this building aesthetically pleasing. Any attempt at beauty would indeed, likely be counterproductive. Sitting back in my colourful, cluttered living room, I am spending a lot of time thinking about the Van der Rohe Haus and especially some of Max Cole’s quotes. ‘The goal is clarity’ she said. Or: ‘Art is exploring universal questions’. ‘You cannot possibly speak the truth’ she claims ‘unless you have made some attempt to understand what the truth is and without being honest you just have decoration’. Indeed, the whole exhibition program in the Van der Rohe House uses architecture as its starting point and the works exhibited therein rely on reduced and concentrated forms of expression. They must be minimal. Less is more. Many of van der Rohe’s ideas ring especially clear as a good metaphor and building block for my own life at present. I have successfully shed negative influences in my life the past year using writing as a tool in my search for the truth. Just as Van der Rohe shed superficial facades from his buildings, I have shed the superficial façade that was heavy drinking. I have also shed superficial relationships and am becoming better at being alone and not feeling lonely. I just recently put all my effort into finally getting to the core of truthful issues with a man I had had a somewhat superficial chat with online for many months. I had hoped for more from him, but he was unable to reciprocate it. I am happy with how the whole issue was resolved, however, as I cut to the core and spoke the necessary truth and he responded in kind. It has proven to be absolutely liberating for me.  My research at the Van der Rohe Haus has affirmed my beliefs,  and I will continue to search for truth, beauty and core ideas in my writing, and I intend to encompass and include the surrounding architecture, art, ideas and conversations that lead to new adventures and stories daily. It is all a magical adventure and I never know where it leads.

Image is the Bauhaus Signet courtesy of Bauhaus Archive

Orpheus and Eurydice

3 Feb

Edward_Poynter

by Rhea H.Boyden

Like Eurydice she feels the sting, the bite of the snake. But she remains in the underworld with her. She is not ready to arise yet. The ice-encrusted wheel is spinning in the brook, round like a timepiece. It is not time yet, it warns her. The truth has been spoken, it was time for that. Somehow the stars were aligned on that night. Like a simple, straight, dark line that honours simplicity and serenity it was shot like an arrow. She still loves Orpheus and the strum of his lyre. Desiring truth she dares to pose the question. Can the irrational and the rational coexist? Or will they collapse? She is sure for one bright moment that they can coexist through the truth and beauty of art. Art, as it has done before, will save her for one day.

Painting of Orpheus and Eurydice by Edward Poynter

Link

Link to Heinrich Von Kleist at Volksbühne Listing in Slow Travel Berlin

2 Feb

Link to Heinrich Von Kleist at Volksbühne Listing in Slow Travel Berlin

Spam and its Consequences

2 Feb

By Rhea H. Boyden

‘Did you get some weird mail from Rhea this morning
too?’ my Scottish musician friend’s mum asked him upon receiving a weird link
from me. ‘Yes, I did’ he responded, ‘and don’t open it, it is spam. Rhea has
some strange magnetic field around her and she attracts spammers and con
artists. Everything electrical that she touches goes crazy,’ he explained to
his mother.

‘May I just use your computer to change my password
quickly on my email?’ I pleaded with my supervisor at work. ‘I keep getting
mails from all kinds of people telling me they have received spam from me and I
should change it urgently.’ I looked at him with begging eyes. ‘Absolutely not,
get out of here’, he said with an evil and mocking laugh. ‘Remember what
happened the last time you tried to use my fax machine? The thing gave up after
you so much as laid a finger on it,’ he scowled.

‘Thanks for the new offer of diet pills and porn, Rhea’
my old barman friend teased me. ‘Rhea, you have been spamjacked!’ wrote
another.  The best that happens of course,
is when the ex boyfriends chime in. ‘Thanks for the offer of Viagra, Rhea, but
you of all people should know that I have no use for it,’ wrote one. What can I
do but groan and laugh simultaneously at this. Worse still, is that I also know
that the guy who just rejected me also got the spam mail. ‘Oh dear’ I cringe. I
must write him a short mail explaining that it is spam and not to open it.

‘Look at it this way’, a friendly colleague of mine said
‘Lots of people are thinking of you today. Isn’t that nice? she consoled. ‘Yes,
I suppose it is, friends, enemies, ex lovers, magazine editors and yes, just
about everybody. How delightful!’ And it does truly seem that a lot of people were
thinking of me today. One guy who I went on three dates with a few months ago
even responded. ‘So, sorry I have not been in touch Rhea, I have been really busy
with work, but we should meet up again soon,’ he wrote. I had thought that
there was a reason we hadn’t met up again after date three, however, and my
thought was that there was simply a lack of interest and chemistry and now he
is writing this? Is he just being polite?

So, yet again my close friends are teasing me and
having a laugh at how crazy I am with gadgets, computers, printers and so
forth. I do seem to have some inborn lack of understanding for how they work
and I simply seem to terrify certain gadgets to death. ‘Remember when your
printer committed printicide?’ reminded another friend. ‘Or’ he continued to
tease, ‘when you touched that old radio and it turned to static and refused to
be retuned.’ Oh, how I remember all these things. And yes, I readily admit that
I have a fear of all things technical and mathematical. I do try to learn and
deal with these things, but sometimes it is just out of my control. I have
other talents that I am proud of. Statistics have shown that people who are
good at writing and languages tend to be hopeless at dealing with calculations,
logical thinking, reading clocks (which I didn’t learn until I was 10)
operating technical gadgets and other harrowing tasks such as long division. I
must have cried enough tears to fill a bucket while trying to learn long
division and my multiplication tables. It has also been shown that writers tend
to live in a bit of a fantasy world, which I will admit now, is very definitely
the case. I go deep into fantasy world while writing and also while thinking
about the fantasy dream man who I cannot have who also regrettably received my
spam mail. ‘Think of it this way,’ a girlfriend comforted. ‘At least he was
thinking about you for a few minutes when he received the mail. Isn’t that a
nice thought?’ she smiled. ‘Yes, I suppose it is’ I said returning the smile.

Link

Link to ‘Psycho and Plastic’ listing in Slow Travel Berlin

25 Jan

Link to ‘Psycho and Plastic’ listing in Slow Travel Berlin

Link

Link to Giuseppe Verdi’s ‘Masked Ball’ Listing in Slow Travel Berlin

25 Jan

Link to Giuseppe Verdi’s ‘Masked Ball’ Listing in Slow Travel Berlin

Excursion to Brecht Weigel House

23 Jan

By Rhea H. Boyden
Firs
In the early hours
The fir trees are copper
That’s how I saw them
Half a century ago
Two world wars ago
With young eyes.
-Bertolt Brecht
Buckower Elegies, 1953

The third weekend in January is generally deemed to be one of the most depressing weekends of the year with motivation and energy levels at an all time low. Your couch is the most comfortable place to wallow with a bag of sweets or a cup of hot chocolate, and you may also be feeling guilty that you have, within 3 weeks of making all those wonderful new year’s resolutions, forgotten and broken them all. I have spent many a third January weekend in this state, but this year was different. The magazine I am writing for had sent me on an assignment to write a page for a new Berlin guidebook, so I cheerily got out of bed early on Saturday morning to go culture chasing.
The assignment was to take a two-hour train and bus ride to the Spa town of Buckow  to go visit the summer home of the German poet and playwright Bertolt Brecht and his Austrian actor wife Helene Weigel. ‘The garden obviously won’t be looking the best this time of year’ said the guy I am writing for, ‘but I am sure it will be worth the trip anyway’ he assured.
I packed a nice breakfast of fruit and a sandwich, grabbed a hot cup of coffee and hopped on the subway, happy and proud to be chosen for this assignment. Two hours later, after a subway, regional  train, and then a bus ride through the snowy woods, a few other brave souls and I arrived at the deserted marketplace of Buckow which has a scant population of 1,500, none of whom were showing their  faces on this cold January day.
Buckow  is located on the fabulous Schermuetzel Lake and is the seat of the municipal association of the beautiful, hilly and forested region not far from the Polish border known as Maerkische Schweiz. Since 1990, the entire region has been protected as a nature park. It is a popular Spa town in summer and its spa resort follows the philosophy of the Bavarian priest Sebastian Kneipp born in 1821, who was a proponent of hydrotherapy and herbalism.  Kneipp used his ‘Water Cure’ to treat all kinds of ailments. He promoted good nutrition, exercise and spirituality as the basis of a good life. Buckow is the home of a Kneipp day-care centre where children are raised and educated according to his principals, eating lots of fresh fruit and vegetables and very little meat. There is also a Kneipp herb garden in the centre of the town.
After stopping to look at an ice-encrusted waterwheel that was still turning in the semi-frozen brook, I followed the signs to the Brecht-Weigel House.  After a brisk 20 minute walk past the beautiful villas that overlook the Schermuetzel Lake, I arrived at the gates of the Brecht Weigel House which looked very much deserted. I entered the house and a cheerful lady at reception greeted me and said she had been expecting me. I did not have to probe her much for information as she was extremely knowledgeable and immediately launched into anecdotes and historical facts about the house. We were alone, so happily she could devote all her time to me.  ‘Helene Weigel was a fabulous cook’ she informed me, ‘and she loved to treat her guests to her delicacies here. ‘Look, here is a fabulous cook book containing her recipes’. She opened the wonderful  cookbook so we could peruse the fabulous dishes. My stomach was now rumbling and I remembered my half
eaten sandwich in my bag that I then pulled out and munched on as the lady filled me with stories.
The house had been built by the sculptor Georg Roch in 1910-11 and the front room is a fabulous bright, 5 metre high studio with a front wall of windows that overlook the garden, a boat dock and the lake. Helene Weigel’s collection of old German furniture from the 18th and 19th century fill the huge room, which she furnished as a salon to entertain guests in summer between 1952 and 1956 when she and Brecht leased the house from the town of Buckow.
Many of Georg Roch’s scultures adorn the walls of the house both inside and out, and there are also more of his ivy-covered sculptures in the garden in the shade of the silver poplar and fir trees.
The salon in the main house was primarily the working space of Weigel, while Brecht withdrew  to his simply furnished garden house to work on his plays and poetry. During the summer of 1953 he wrote ‘The Buckower Elegies’ which was his artistic and poetic reaction to the GDR worker’s uprising of June 17th 1953.
Today, the garden house has an exhibit of Helene Weigel’s costumes, and some of the props from the staging of Brecht’s play ‘Mutter Courage’ which was Weigel’s most triumphant role in acting. Weigel was the artistic director of the Berliner Ensemble until her death in 1971 and after Brecht’s death of a heart attack in 1956 she continued to entertain guests from the theatre at the couple’s house in Buckow. The garden house also has much of Brecht’s poetry on its walls.
After purchasing my own copy of ‘The Buckower Elegies’ and saying goodbye to the wonderfully helpful woman, I set off on a walk through the woods and around the lake myself deep in contemplation. After about half an hour, I came across a large elegant restaurant and hotel. I entered and took a seat near the fireplace overlooking the semi-frozen lake upon which the setting January sun was now shining its weak rays. I ordered a coffee and a piece of hot apple strudel with vanilla ice-cream. ‘The apple strudel is made according to Helene Weigel’s recipe’ the waiter claimed proudly as he placed it in front of me. ‘Oh fantastic!’ I responded. I savoured every bite while reading Brecht’s poetry.
Eventually it was time to trek back to the marketplace to get back on the bus and then train back to Berlin. I took a quick walk through the Schlosspark and then had a glance in the doors of the town’s small church. I again encountered the same small group of people who had braved the January weather for a weekend excursion and we all happily boarded the bus together exchanging smiles.
On the journey home, I perused the literature that the cheerful lady had provided me, happy in the knowledge that I was now heading back to Berlin where there was an abundance of Brecht and Weigel’s, work, history, plays and poetry still awaiting me on the stages and in the cultural centres of this fine capital city.

Link

Link to Kurt Weill at Komische Oper in Slow Travel Berlin

19 Jan

Link to Kurt Weill at Komische Oper in Slow Travel Berlin

The Surprise Christmas Reunion

13 Jan

by Rhea H.Boyden

I am standing very close to my fantasy dream man and we are looking at each other. ‘It would be all warm and wet’ he says with a cheeky grin. ‘Yes it would’ I respond with a coy smile. My imagination is running wild and he looks even better in real life than he looks in his online photos. I can hardly believe that we are here together in the real w…orld and no longer in our online chat world that I built into such a fantasy. The real reason for everything being warm and wet, however, is not some kind of sexual dream we would find ourselves in, but rather a commentary on the possible temperature and composition of the puke that the drunk guy may hurl onto us as he is being escorted past us with great difficulty and out the door of the bar. It is pretty remarkable that we find ourselves practically pinned up against each other within two minutes of my entering the bar. I would love to have his strong arms around me, but this is a dream that will sadly never be fulfilled. Just being in the same space as him and carrying on this conversation is a fantasy I have harboured for months upon months after our extensive online correspondence, so I am quite fixated on him despite the fact that he has already rejected me online after I admitted my feelings for him. The tension between us now leaves me with utter disbelief that my feelings could not be reciprocated. Oh there are worse horrors in the world than unrequited love, but I am currently unable to recall such horrors. When I went out the pub with my brother and some friends that evening, I had a secret hope that I would run into Mister Fantasy Online man now that I was home in our mutual hometown for Christmas, but I did not think that the second I walked into the bar our eyes would lock in surprise and shock and I would be drawn right towards him nervously and, my voice shaking slightly as he and I try to compose ourselves to greet each other. ‘Hi lads, how are you doing?’ I manage to stammer. Thankfully his drinking buddy for the evening was another of my old classmates who I also got on well with back in the day. ‘I saw your article in the magazine’ my fantasy man informs me. ‘Oh, did you see that?’ I respond. ‘I was very happy it made cover story’. I am of course very happy too that he went to the trouble to get a copy of the magazine and read it and I take this as a compliment too. ‘I am writing for a Berlin magazine now’ I happily inform him. ‘Oh really, how long have you been doing that?’he asks. ‘About six weeks’ I smile ecstatically at him that he is taking an interest in my writing. ‘How is the running going?’ I quiz him on an aspect of his life that I highly admire and find an inspiration. ‘Really well, I ran the Dublin marathon recently’ he tells me. ‘Wow, you did that, amazing? He is fit too, it is a hard fact to overlook. At this point I then turn my attention to his friend-my old classmate- who does seem to be wondering how we seem to know so much about each other after such a long time not seeing each other. Is it obvious to outsiders who observe such a tension filled conversation that they have had an online correspondence that ended weirdly? I do wonder. He tells me about his life and then he asks me ‘So, what about you, Rhea, are you married with kids?’ ‘Um, no I am not’ I respond with a slight laugh, aware that the man who has rejected me is observing this conversation. ‘I am writing Sex and the City style articles, I would hardly be married’, I say dismissively with a wave trying to act blasé and laugh it off in my obvious tense state. ‘Well, I will leave you gentlemen to your pint.’ I announce , not wanting to leave at all, but trying to play it cool. ‘I am insulted that you want to leave us already, you just arrived!’ my Fantasy man’s friend announces. ‘Tell me more about your writing and work’ he says. ‘Um, ok, here is my card if you are interested, my blog is on it’. I hand it to him and then say ‘Oh, it’s my last one’. This happens to be a stroke of luck because I don’t want to give one to my Fantasy dream man anyway because a) he has rejected me and b) he is in many of the stories and poems that I wrote over the past months in any case being my principal muse and I would rather not go out of my way to give him access to my blog. He already knows that he was the muse of one of my most inspired poems that I am very proud of because I wrote it for him and sent it to him and told him which was likely all too much for him and the reason I scared him off and he rejected me in the first place. Eventually I make my excuses and make a point of leaving the bar before him so I can take my pride with me in tact. ‘We are now heading down to that other old bar the one that never changes over the decades.’ I tell him. ‘It has been renovated a bit’, he tells me. ‘Oh, really, you mean the owner has actually allowed the place to be dusted?’ I enquire. ‘Well, I wouldn’t go so far as to say he allowed that’ he says. ‘Well, I guess I will go down and wipe off a layer of dust’ I tell him with a seductive smile that I can hardly suppress. The dust had settled on this issue between me and him and I had gotten over it and now the dust that was the cloud of an online correspondence has been wiped away and the months I had of getting over him have been polished clear and I am left bare and shining and fully alert to what I always intuited; that I really did have a serious crush on this guy despite that fact that I had not seen him in 18 years. ‘Have a nice Christmas’ he says, as I exit the bar. ‘ You too’ I respond, as I hasten to leave against my will and my heart but my pride demanding it.

Link

Link to ‘Tropical Nights’ Preview In Slow Travel Berlin

13 Jan

Link to ‘Tropical Nights’ Preview In Slow Travel Berlin